Modelling Levels& styles
Levels: This can be a tricky one as there are so many and so many different understandings of each of them. Firstly you need to understand the meaning of each of them and then decide on what levels You are happy to do.
When arranging shoots make sure you both agree beforehand the levels you will be working to and you both have the same understanding of them. You should always know the levels you will be working to before you arrive for the shoot that way it helps to avoid any confusion on either side.
Anyone that tries to push your levels or bully you into working to levels you are not happy with should be avoided.
If you are not sure check recommendations and even message models that have worked with the photographer previously, but I would say if you are having doubts or having bad feelings about the shoot or the photographer then don’t do it.
If you do decide that you want to try working to a higher level than work with a trusted photographer that you have worked with before. Or someone that has good reputation, references and is known in that field.
Styles:
There are many modelling styles a good thing to do is to be honest with yourself know what your strengths and weaknesses are and pursue the style that will work for you. I meet many girls who like the sound or the idea of a particular style but they don’t fit into what that style needs/wants. We are all different shapes, sizes, ages, looks etc and it is just looking at that and your strengths.
Commercial: Commercial advertising is one of the biggest areas of modelling and includes TV adverts, poster, magazine and internet campaigns. Most commercial agencies have less restrictions then fashion agencies. Not only interested in you having the height but if you have a great look you still may be considered. You will have to be prepared to go to many castings and you will have to travel all over the country. It can mean long and demanding days, but it pays well and is great exposure, leading to more work.
Petite: Petite models are usually around 5ft 2” to 5ft 7” and sizes 6 to 10 and in good proportion. Girls and women who undertake this work usually have a second income or work in promotions as well as there is not a high demand, although a few fashion chains now offer petite ranges, so the opportunities for petite modelling are increasing all the time.
Plus sized: This is probably one of the fastest growing modelling sectors. Most Plus size models are a size 12-16 but there is also work for models sized 18 and above. Height restrictions are still generally the same as fashion models, but there are more opportunities in TV extras work, commercial and catalogue modelling.
Mature: Being in your thirties, fifties or even over sixty doesn’t mean you can’t be a model - there are many products that specifically need mature models to advertise them. Take TV adverts and women’s magazines for example. Many agencies are more relaxed about height restrictions within this genre than mainstream fashion requirements.
Parts: The most regular body parts required are hair, hands, feet and legs – but often teeth, lips, torsos and eyes are required too. If you have a body part that people often comment on as your best feature, or something that stands out, then it’s worth thinking about making body parts a type of modelling you are willing to do. Work is usually part time and you’ll have to be sure to take daily care of your part
Promotions: Promotion models need to have a friendly, personable, helpful personality. Promotions can be fun and ranges from handing out free advertising brochures at motor shows, to greeting VIP guests at big nightclub opening parties or wearing a company logo “T” shirt. It tends to be well paid, means meeting a lot of people and being at events. Confidence and friendliness is key.
Fashion: Fashion modelling is very competitive at agency standards. Most fashion agencies are based in London, although many have bases in the Midlands and South West too (Birmingham and Bristol). Work often involves both catwalk and photographic/magazine fashion campaigns. Female models must be at least 5’8 and a size 8-10, and male models 5’11. Agencies tend to be very strict about this as designers work to these sizes as ‘standard’. If models are signed with a top fashion agency, this will be where they earn most of their income. This area of modelling is very competitive, requires a high stamina and resilience to cope with the demands of the job. Days can be very long, but work is very highly paid. Agencies will often provide the training required for catwalk, castings and creating a portfolio.
In the internet world, being a fashion model is more low key, and generally means casual fashion, or modelling clothed. Most outfits will be your own and you will be required to provide outfits for shoots most of the time. A photographer may ask you to bring certain styles or types of outfits, so make sure you are able to provide these or let them know if you can’t. You’ll find below a list of clothing which is useful to bring to shoots.
Alternative Fashion: Alternative fashion falls into a slightly different category. Alternative fashion is more gothic, punk, grunge styles. Normally you will have the whole Alternative look, piercings or tattoos etc. There is a growing demand for genuine alternative models, and is less strict about height, age, size or specific looks. There are hardly any fashion agencies that take Alternative models onto their books, but there are a handful of specifically alternative agencies that aim to find work for alternative models in Alt scenes and the mainstream/commercial industries.
Beauty: It’s a head shot but normally with a team on board to do your makeup and hair. Beauty can often merge with commercial. A lot of photographers like beauty shoots as it can show off their retouching skills.
Catwalk: Catwalk or runway modelling requires a different set of skills. The ability to "walk", turn and sometimes dance, although for complicated routines, dancers are usually booked to "pad out" the models. The physical requirements for catwalk modelling is fairly specific - tall, slim with striking looks.
Lingerie: Lingerie modelling is a commercial style, normally the sort of thing you see in underwear catalogues, magazines. Lingerie models are often slightly more curvy then fashion models giving more shape to the lingerie.
Fitness: Fitness modelling requires a well-toned figure and often a degree of athletic proficiency. Fitness models appear in ads for health and fitness products, athletic companies, and trade magazines such as Runner’s World or Shape.
Lingerie/Boudoir: This may be a little more sensual, but still in nothing less than underwear. Generally this uses a lower light to create more atmosphere and will be shot in a bedroom set or similar but not a studio. You don’t often look the camera but more gaze romantically out of a window or look softly at yourself. When you do look at the camera it will be more subtle, soft, shy expressions.
18+ ONLY!
Glamour: Glamour modelling includes lingerie and topless work, the type seen in lads mags, many calendars and Page 3. It aims to be sexy. There are no real restrictions with height or size, but agencies do prefer Glamour models to have bigger breasts. You need to be 18 years old to be a glamour model (even if you’re in lingerie and not topless).
Topless: This require you to be topless, with breasts and nipples on show. Whether or not you choose to take a glamour approach to being topless or a more artistic approach is entirely your choice.
Fashion Nude: This means you will be at least partly nude. You will be using clothes or jewellery and exposing parts of your body. This is not implied. Make sure you discuss with the photographer the amount of nudity involved and what you are happy with.
Implied Nude: This style requires you to be nude at the shoot, but pose in order to cover up breasts and between your legs. You will be naked but the photo won’t show anything ‘rude’. The photographer however will see you nude as you move from pose to pose.
Art Nude: This often includes ‘full frontal nude’. You will be naked; the photographer will see your body and take photos of it. Art nude isn’t necessarily sexy; it’s about the light on your body, and creating interesting shapes and lines for an artistic image. Often there is no direct eye contact between the model and the camera.
Erotic: Is normally nude but not always. It will be very sexy and will look like you are pleasuring yourself but this is just an act, you do not actually preform the act but just pretend for the shots. The shots are normally not brightly lit and often black and white. You have more eye contact here then you would with art nude and more of a sexy look to camera.
Voyeuristic: Is normally either boudoir or erotic in style with the photographer angling himself behind doors, looking through windows or mirrors etc giving the feeling to the viewer that the model is being spied upon.
UK mag: This is explicit open leg work. The photographer will take photos of you with legs open, showing your genitalia clearly. Some consider Uk mag to include holding yourself open with hands or fingers – exactly what you’re happy with should be discussed with the photographer.
US Mag: This is explicit open leg while holding yourself open. Photos will clearly show your genitalia.
Continental: This involves open leg and insertions (either fingers or toys).
G/G – This is girl girl work. You will be posing with another female model in a sexy way. This may include kissing and other ‘softer’ levels of work.
B/G – This is boy girl work. You will be posing with a male model in a sexy way. This may include kissing and other ‘softer’ levels of work.
Hardcore g/g or b/g – This is much less subtle. Sexual acts are performed.
Video work – This isn’t just ‘stills’ or photos now, you will be being filmed.
I know of some models that work to fashion, but have lingerie and even nude images in their portfolio. The argument for this is that the photographer they shot those levels with they felt happy with. I would say that's great and if your thinking of trying a "higher" level then to do this but I do not agree with adding them to your portfolio. For a commercial job or private use if a different matter but for me your portfolio is like your shop window.
If you are displaying cakes then when the person goes in you only provide shoes, no matter how nice the shoes maybe they are still not cakes.
Thanks
Vicky
